Salt Cod Fritters (Pastéis de Bacalhau)

Poach the soaked cod in barely-simmering water for 12 minutes. Drain, cool enough to handle, then flake it, removing every bone and scrap of skin. Squeeze the flakes dry in a towel.

Boil the potatoes whole in their skins, peel while hot, and pass through a ricer. Do not use a food processor unless you want glue.

Combine cod, potato, onion, eggs, parsley and nutmeg. Taste for salt — the cod may have brought enough.

Shape quenelles between two spoons and fry at 180°C / 355°F, six at a time, for 3–4 minutes until dark gold.

Drain on a rack, not paper, and eat them standing up in the kitchen.