Black Dal with Burnt Butter

Drain the soaked dal and beans, cover with 1.5 litres of fresh water, and bring to a hard boil. Skim the grey foam, then drop to the barest simmer.

Add the ginger, garlic, tomatoes, chile powder and salt. Simmer uncovered for 2.5 to 3 hours, stirring every 20 minutes and topping up with hot water whenever it looks tight. You are waiting for the beans to collapse into the liquid — do not rush it.

When the dal is thick enough to hold a spoon-trail for a second, stir in half the butter and all the cream. Simmer 15 minutes more.

Brown the remaining butter in a small pan until it smells nutty and the milk solids are deep gold, then swirl in the garam masala off the heat.

Pour the burnt butter over the dal at the table. Do not stir it in until everyone has seen it.